What comes first ?

Hey there sewing friend,

Working at a fabric shop for 3 years, I was constantly surrounded by the most beautiful fabric, while this was many sewists' ideas of heaven, I often found myself becoming overwhelmed by all the potential sewing projects. During my time working there, my fabric stash grew from a shoe box to multiple storage bins.
This got me thinking. What inspires me to sew? Is it the fabric, with its colour and texture? Or, is it the sewing pattern, with the ruffles and billowing sleeves?
Its a cycle I guess, fabric inspires sewing pattern and sewing pattern inspires fabric, but there are a few key aspects that you should know about before starting your next sewing project or, venturing into the fabric stores.

Team Sewing Pattern

Composition
There are many reasons why you should pick out your sewing pattern first. Number one being that a sewing pattern often requires you to pick a specific type of fabric. This argument is reinforced by the wear of a garment, if you're making a lightweight summer dress, the shape and body of the garment is affected by the fabric choice. Therefore you need to take into consideration the fabric before venturing anywhere near a fabric shop.

Meterage
The number two reason why you should choose your sewing pattern before the fabric is meterage. It is almost inevitable when buying fabric to get that little bit extra to be on the safe side, but, by choosing your sewing pattern first you can avoid over spending, and having excess fabric left over at the end of your sewing project.

Helpful Hint
If you are like me and sometimes you just cant help yourself when it comes to buying fabric, it's a great idea to have a versatile sewing pattern in mind. This kind of pattern is your go-to because it pairs well with a variety of fabrics, whether you find a soft cotton, a drapey silk, or linen. Keeping such a pattern in mind gives you flexibility and creativity in your sewing projects and takes the pressure of getting the “right” fabric.

Team Fabric

Choosing your fabric first can be a great way to get you inspired and ready to sew, walking into a fabric store or spending the afternoon with your fabric stash, when that one fabric catches your eye, there's no stopping you. Colour, texture and pattern all play a part in selecting the fabric for your sewing project so it is not to be taken lightly.

Emotional connection
I know I'm not the only sewist out there that has an emotional connection with their fabric. I still remember the first fabric I ever bought, it was a silk satin Liberty of London fabric, and it took me nearly five years to sew up, the fear I had in those first few cuts, if you know, you know. When you feel a strong emotional connection to a fabric like I did, you take your time. The sewing projects that are the end result of these types of fabrics are ones that will stay in your wardrobe for years, tear’s repaired and might even make it to the next generation. I know that Liberty fabric will !

Texture
This one is personal to me, I got very acute about the texture of fabric after working at a fabric store for three years. My general rule is, no matter how beautiful it is, the texture is everything. If it doesn't feel nice on your skin, then what's the point of buying it, sewing it and never wearing it. Run the fabric over your skin and FEEL it, really feel the fabric. Will you wear it? That's the only question you need to answer.

Helpful hint
Before buying fabric, it's really important to see if it fits into your current washing cycle. I know that sounds strange, but stick with me. I never iron, so, if a fabric wrinkles, I won't wear it. There are a bunch of little “tests” that you can do while the fabric is still on the bolt. Scrunch it up to see if it creases, fold and press it to see if it holds a crease. Finding a fabric that works best for you will allow you to wear more of what you sew.
In the sewing community, whether you start with a pattern or fabric depends on what inspires you at that moment. Patterns can guide your fabric choices, ensuring the final garment functions well, while a unique fabric might spark your creativity, leading you to a perfect pattern match. If choosing becomes overwhelming, keeping a versatile pattern in mind can help narrow your options and focus your creativity. Ultimately, whether you’re team Fabric or team Sewing Pattern, the most important aspect is the joy and learning that come from each sewing project. Embrace both methods and discover which one best ignites your passion for sewing.

Talk soon, Annie xx
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Make Do and Mend, the OG Sustainable fashion

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Elizabeth James is my muse. The origin story.