Sewing with Denim: What Every Beginner Should Know Before Starting
Hi there sewing friends !
Let’s talk about denim—yep, that beautiful, sturdy, slightly rebellious fabric that we all know and love. If you’ve ever looked at a pair of jeans and thought “I could totally make that”, I’m sending you a gentle hug and a friendly warning: sewing with denim isn’t your average beginner project.
It’s bold. It’s beautiful. But if you are just starting out and want to learn how to sew, denim will definitely test your patience (and possibly your sewing machine 😅). So today, I’m sharing everything I wish I knew before sewing with denim—from the challenges, the must-know tools, and a few things you can try before diving into your first pair of handmade jeans.
Denim Is Thick... And That Changes Everything
If you’ve only sewn with cotton or lightweight fabrics so far, denim sewing is going to feel like a whole new world. Even if it feels similar in your hands, the moment you start layering seams—like around zippers, waistbands, or hems—that “slightly thicker” fabric quickly becomes millimetres of bulk. And that bulk? It can make even straight seams feel like an uphill battle.
Here’s what I wish someone had told me: when working with thick fabric like denim, you need to change your needle, use a heavy-duty thread, and adjust your machine settings. You might even need to switch to a walking foot or hammer down thick seams (yes, literally—some sewists use a hammer to flatten bulky areas before stitching!).
If you're new to sewing for beginners, I’d recommend trying a small project like a cushion cover or patchwork tote using denim scraps. This way, you’ll get a feel for the fabric without committing to a big project just yet.
Not All Denim Projects Are Created Equal
The first time I sewed with denim, I made a jumpsuit—wide straps, a chunky zip down the front, and a flared waist. It looked dreamy... but sewing it? Not so much.
The seams were bulky, it didn’t sit the way I wanted, and I was constantly battling my machine. I broke needles. I broke a sewing machine. And I made one of the most common mistakes: using topstitching thread in the bobbin instead of just in the top thread. (Spoiler: don’t do that.)
Denim projects require more than just confidence—they need thoughtful construction. From trimming seam allowancesto planning around hardware (like rivets, buttons, or zips), you’ll want to consider every layer before you even start sewing. If you’re just learning how to sew clothes, skip the jeans or jacket and try something simpler—like a denim skirt with a gathered waistband or a basic bag.
Tips for Sewing Denim (Without Losing Your Mind)
Alright, here’s where I make life easier for you. If you are ready to sew with denim, here are my top beginner tips:
Use a jeans needle: Regular needles won’t cut it (literally). Look for needles labeled “denim” or “jeans.”
Heavy-duty thread only on top: Use topstitching thread on the spool only—keep regular thread in the bobbin.
Lengthen your stitch: A longer stitch length (try 3–3.5mm) helps glide through thicker layers more easily.
Trim your seam allowances: Especially at corners or overlaps, trimming reduces bulk and helps pieces sit flatter.
Test your seams: Grab denim scraps and test out your tension, stitch length, and topstitching before diving into your actual project.
Oh—and flat-felled seams (like the ones on your jeans)? They’re a whole technique on their own, perfect for adding strength and style to your denim pieces. I might even do a little tutorial on them soon 👀
Sewing patterns that use denim.
The Assembly Line Apron: https://thefoldline.com/products/the-assembly-line-apron-dress?_pos=13&_sid=927b7fd69&_ss=r
Helene Selvedge Jeans: https://annaallenclothing.com/collections/featured-patterns/products/helene-selvedge-jeans-pdf-sewing-pattern-sizes-00-22-and-14-32
In the folds Ormond Coat: https://thefoldline.com/products/in-the-folds-ormond-coat
Sewing Machine Guide