A right of passage in the sewing community is to gradually build your fabric stash. Filled with so many beautiful fabrics, its only a matter of time before you forget the exact composition of your fabric. Knowing the composition of a fabric is important when it comes to picking the right fabric for your design project, as different fabrics have different characteristics and care instructions.

This guide will take you through the steps to determine a fabrics composition by preforming a fabric burn test. This involves cutting a swatch off your fabric and lighting it on fire. This flame, odour and residue will have distinctive characteristics that you compare them against the “Fabric Burn Guide” chart, you can identify the fabrics composition.

Cotton

Flame Reaction: Cotton typically has a steady and moderate flame. It burns easily but does not sustain the fire once the ignition source is removed.

Odour: The smell is akin to burning paper, and it’s relatively neutral compared to some synthetic fabrics.

Residue Texture: After burning, cotton leaves a soft and feathery ash or residue. It crumbles easily, showcasing its organic and natural fiber composition.

Silk

Flame Reaction: Silk burns slowly with a steady flame. It may self-extinguish after removing the ignition source.

Odour: Silk has a distinct odor, often described as similar to burning hair or feathers.

Residue Texture: The residue left by silk is typically a dark, gritty bead. It is not as soft as the residue from cotton and may feel more like a hard, round substance.

Wool

Flame Reaction: Wool burns slowly with a low, steady flame. It often self-extinguishes once the ignition source is removed.

Odour: The odor produced during the burning of wool is like that of burning hair or feathers, distinct and somewhat pungent.

Residue Texture: Wool leaves a dark, brittle ash or residue. The texture is often hard and irregular, differentiating it from the softer ash produced by cotton.

Polyester

Flame Reaction: Polyester typically has a fast and vigorous flame. It melts as it burns, and the flame may continue even after removing the ignition source.

Odour: Polyester emits a sweet, chemical odor when burning, different from natural fibers. The smell can be unpleasant.

Residue Texture: Polyester leaves a hard, bead-like residue that is often smooth and shiny. It does not crumble easily, indicating its synthetic nature.

Synthetic

Flame Reaction: Synthetic fabrics typically have a fast and intense flame. They often melt as they burn and may continue burning even after removing the ignition source.

Odour: The odor produced by burning synthetic fabrics is often acrid, chemical, or plastic-like. It can be unpleasant and distinct from natural fibers.

Residue Texture: Synthetic fabrics leave a hard, often shiny, and melted residue. The texture is not soft and crumbly like natural fibers; instead, it may be bead-like or have a plastic-like feel, indicating the synthetic composition.